There is much more to selling a ring than informing the customer of the quality of the center stone. The ring, or mounting that holds the stones should last more than a life time. A properly constructed ring and stones that are set correctly will accomplish this purpose. However, many aspects of quality diamond setting are being lost. Stone setters with high levels of experience and craft are dwindling fast. Most manufacturing has gone over seas.
The following is a partial list of the techniques I incorporate in my setting.
Graduating stone size: Whether I’m setting three or one hundred and three, all stones are matched in size. In channel and bead setting, stone sizes will appear pleasing in progression. Even small changes in stone size, (one big, one a little smaller, one bigger), can make a piece seem less than desirable to the untrained eye.
Bead Setting: Includes Pave and Micro-Pave. Each stone will have a hole for cleaning, unless otherwise specified. Also, the less metal that is touching the stone the brighter the stone will appear. Extra deep bright-cut is applied as much as the metal will allow with a perfect mirror finish on the sides; a look that can never be duplicated by cad/cam. When covering a larger area with several stones all stones will be placed in a pattern and set at the same height. This true pave pattern will be symmetrical, whether the stones are set side by side or alternated. (See gallery).
Millgrain is done by hand and is proportional to the size of the area being bright-cut.
Channel Setting: All stones are set with sufficient depth, level, and hammered tight. (as opposed to stones set in wax then cast in place where there is no tension or compressed metal holding the stone). Each stone is individually seated to keep stones tighter and prevent stones from drifting or tipping, (some manufacturers use a continuous unbroken seat), channel walls are bright cut after setting to make perfectly even lines.
Burnish Set: The most difficult type of setting to check for tightness. Round ,fancy shapes, diamond or colored stone, stones are not only burnished but hammered to insure stones are set tight. All pieces spend time in the ultrasonic and are rechecked before shipping.
Prong Center Set: Stones are set even, prongs down on stone with inside bur along the prongs removed, table facets are squared, (unless hiding a flaw under a prong is requested) and set according to your height specification. Prongs are left with plenty metal for long durable wear.
Every piece is ultrasonic tested for loose stones before shipment.
Polishing: My prices do not include polishing. Many jewelers and designers prefer to do their own polishing and save money on setting prices. Polishing and rhodium can be provided at an additional charge. When my setting is done all filing marks and scratches are removed so your pieces are ready to polish without any further preparation.
Sheer craftsmanship can be defined as getting the details right and not cutting any corners. Craftsmanship is after all an essential component of excellence.
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